The Pope and Us in Jerusalem

Hold the Mushrooms

In case you were wondering what the Pope had for lunch last week when he dined with the Latin Patriarchate in Jerusalem, here’s the inside scoop from the chef and his assistant who prepared the meal. Exploring the cobble-stoned, high-walled alleys of the Christian Quarter in the Old City, we encountered them in the banner-festooned entryway of the Latin Patriarchate’s residence waiting for the caterers’ truck to come pick up the stacks of dirty dishes, tablecloths and other banquet remnants from the previous days’ festivities. The proud and chatty pair shared the menu they created for the Pope and his guests: tabouli, lamb with fresh herbs, rosewater sorbet with an assortment of fresh berries, biscuits and coffee. Sounds tasty. I had guessed they served fish but the chef responded to this suggestion with mock horror, revealing that the Pope is allergic to seafood and mushrooms. You would think this information would be confidential. They graciously invited us into the courtyard for a peak and then posed for a photo with Lew.

Whose History?

The various Christian denominations have scored some nice property in and around the Old City. Especially impressive is the Church and Monastery of the Dormition, currently owned by the German Benedictine monks. Poised on the crest of Mt. Zion just outside Zion gate, it marks the spot where Mary fell into “Eternal Sleep” (i.e. died). Though their influence may be dwindling in the Middle East as a whole, Christians have an important foothold in Israel and thus a vital interest in the outcome of conflict over control of Jerusalem and its holy sites. In a recent NY Times article leading up to the Pope’s visit, Ethan Bronner and Isabel Kershner revealed the Israeli government’s $100 million multi-year plan to create a ring of “parks” around Jerusalem to protect the Jewish holy sites. Not only are the battles taking place on the ground but, as I wrote about in an earlier post on our visit to the City of David excavation, the historical narratives that support claims for sovereignty are also highly contested.